(It's all just) Tinsel and Ashes: City of Angels

I finally saw The Artist last week. There are so many things about it that I like, it would be ridiculous to list them. Suffice it to say I loved the whole movie. Every silent, beautiful minute of it.

In addition to its artistic merits, I also appreciate that The Artist was filmed entirely in Los Angeles. I've become enormously fond of L.A. over the years, especially its gritty history and varied architecture. There were a couple of scenes in The Artist that made my nerdy heart beat a little bit faster, because they were shot in two of my very favorite buildings in Downtown: the Oviatt Building, and the Bradbury Building. Everyone knows the Bradbury, whether they know they know it or not. Its atrium lobby is beyond iconic, and has appeared in all sorts of movies, from Blade Runner to 500 Days of Summer. It is a marvel of design that gives the simultaneous impression of being haunted and holy. Its creepy, softly creaking cage elevators and imposing filigree ironwork banisters fight to maintain their gloomy countenance against the downpour of sunlight coming through the glass ceiling. I think the darkness wins out; when I visited a few years ago on a bright afternoon, as soon as I crossed the threshold it felt like I was skulking around in an elegant Victorian asylum.

The Oviatt Building, by contrast, is a sparkling Art Deco masterpiece. The restaurant press interview scene in The Artist is filmed in the ground-floor space now occupied by Maxwell DeMille's Cicada Club (it was originally an upscale men's clothing store). I went to Cicada Club for a retro Halloween party in 2010. Now, I go to a lot of vintage costumed and anachronistically-themed events, but I can definitely say that I have never felt so completely transported to another era as I did when I walked through those doors. Every inch of it is original gilded 1920s glamour and frosted glass. The whole Oviatt Building is spectacular and worth exploring, and if you ever have the chance to go up to the private penthouse apartment and rooftop, run, don't walk. Like the Cicada Club space, it is an intact relic of the golden age of Hollywood. Legend has it that it was a major party spot for the Hollywood elite back in the day. I was told by a fellow party-goer that it was also a preferred hideaway for Bogie and Bacall in the early stages of their romance, while the former was still married to his third wife.

I was so delighted to see these beloved buildings in such a wonderful film. My amateur photos can't begin to do either building experience justice, but here are a couple anyway. I can't wait to go back!